All about the discs
Here is the information I've been able to collect from varioussources.
As far as I know, there's no list of official names for the variousdiscs; they're only identified by number. If someone can point meto a sources of proper names, I would appreciate it.
Contents:
Single Discs
The single pattern discs have a sequence of lobes around theirperimeter that control the position of the needle, left or right,as the machine stitches. The stitch width control also comes intoplay here, controlling the width of the pattern.Set the stitch width lever to zero, and you might as well not havea pattern disc in the machine at all.
The stitch length control also is used here, just as with straightstitch. Adjusting the stitch length control spreads the pattern outor squishes it together. You'll want to pay attention to this control,as many of the patterns only look right if the control is set correctlyfor that pattern.
coming soon: some example photos.
Discs in this section:
03 — Zig-Zag
I list this one first since it's the most important disc you can own if you havea Supermatic machine. (More modern machines such as the Elna Air series have a built-inzig-zag stitch so you don't need the disc.)
Let's face it, in the real world, 90% of the sewing you ever do will be straight stitch,and 90% of everything else will be zig-zag. Sure, you might dig out disc 134and sew some duckies to show your friends what the machine can do, but you're never goingto use it in an actual garment. (Except now you will, just to prove me wrong. Whatever.)
But zig-zag is one you'll use all the time.
If you own a Supermatic, this is the one true "must have" disc. Your machine should havecome with this disc (along with some others). There's a chance that some previousowner removed the disc to sell separately. You might want to refuse to buy themachine if there's no zig-zag disc, but I appreciate that it might be hard to finda machine with this disc. (I'll tell you this much: I've sold a number of Supermatics,and I always include disc 03 and a few others when I sell one.)
If it comes down to it, you can likely find the disc for sale at eBay or Etsy. A simplesearch for Elna pattern cammay be very fruitful. I found thatM&R Sewing and Vacuum(no affiliation) has a decent collection.
If you have access to a 3d printer, you can find theSTL file at Thingiverse.
Things you can do with a basic zig-zag stitch:
Stretch fabric
If you stitch stretch fabric with a straight stitch, you create a place where thefabric can't stretch because of the stitching. If the fabric tries to stretch at thatpoint, it will pull and distort, or worse yet, the thread will break.
Instead, sew with a zig zag stitch. Adjust the stitch width and length so that thezig-zag pattern is roughly at a 45° angle. This gives you a stitch that stretcheswith the fabric.
Edge Stitching
If you don't own a serger (I never have), you may find yourself from time to timeneeding to stitch along the edge of the fabric in such a way to keep it from fraying.
One way to do this is to sew a zig-zag pattern near the edge of the fabric. Thestitching keeps the fabric from fraying. Once sewn, you can trim the fabric closeto (but not cutting!) the stitching. You can also place your stitches close tothe edge of the fabric. If you do this, there's a chance that the stitches willpull the fabric in, which is unsightly.An overcast foothas a small metal bar that prevents this from happening. When using one of these,be careful to have the stitch width set correctly to make sure the needle doesn't comedown on that metal bar. Take a few stitches by hand before applying power. Here is ashort tutorialon the subject: How to Use the Overcast Foot.
With the stitch width and stitch length set very small, you createwhat is known as a "satin stitch". This can be used to finish the edge of somethingdelicate such as a handkerchief. It can also have a purely decorative purpose.
Finally, by running two satin stitches close together, with a bar tack (basicallya wider satin stitch) at the ends, you have a button hole. Here is ashort video that shoows how it'sdone.
01 — Elastic
Looks like disc 03, above, but each zig-zag is actually multiplestitches. You'll need to set the stitch length much shorter to getthe same visual effect. This can give a tighter stitch than disc 03.It can be used with stretch fabric as above, but many of theother effects won't work.
02 — Serpentine
Another side-to-side stitch like zig-zag or stepped zig-zag, but a sine wave patterninstead of a triangle wave pattern.
04 — Long Scallop
05 — Scallop
06 — Zigzigzag
10 — Blind Hem
The blind hem stitch is used in combination with ablind hem foot.You fold thehem of your garment in a special way and use the blind hem foot* to hold itsposition properly. The result is a stitch where one stitch out of six just barelycatches the fabric where it can be seen.
(* The guy who taught me how to sew called it a "micrometer foot".)
11 — Arrows
12 — Spindle
13 — Step zig
Referred to as Rectangle Stitch elsewhere.
16 — Waveform
17 — Round pulses
18 — Scallop
20 — Square pulses
33 — Hi-lo zigzag
Double Discs
Discs in this section:
This is not a complete list. I've only included the ones for which I have anyinformation other than what you can see in the chart above. In some cases, I'velinked to videos that show the disc in action.
101 — Turkish Hemstitch
Also sometimes called the Turkish Point Hemstitch. Here isan articleon using this disc, along with a wing needle to complete the effect.
102 — Loops
103
104 — Feather
Use as a decorative top stitch when hemming blankets, tablecloths,etc. Stitch about 1cm from the edge,then trim close to the stitching.This will prevent the fabric from unravelling.
105 — Greek key stitch
106 — Cross stitch
107 — Wheat
I call it that because it looks like wheat. As always, I have no idea what theactual name is, if any. Purely decorative. Called Herringbone elsewhere.
109 — Chevrons
Purely decorative. I could probably come up with a better name.
110 — Crosses
Purely decorative.
115 — Fagoting
Used to join two pieces of fabric while leaving a space betweentheir edges.
118 — Waves
121 — Leaf
125 — Tricot
A very pretty decorative stretch stitch. Set the stitch width to zero toget a stretchable straight stitch.
131 — Stalagmites and stalactites
134 — Duckies
Probably the most popular of the double pattern discs. If your machine camewith any cams at all, it probably came with this one.
135 — Birds
136 — Dogs
137 — Sailboats
138 — Bells
Or maybe morning glories?
139 — Butterflies
140 — Asterisks
141 — Locking Zig-Zag?
142 — Doilies
Some might call them asterisks or daisies.
143 — Bushes
146 — Superjersey
My notes call this "superjersey". I confess I can't remember where I got that.
148 — Herringbone
I don't know if that's the best name for it; it's what I wrote in my notes.
149 — Overlock
Generates an overlock stitch which can be used to keep the edge of fabric fromfraying. An overcast footcan be used with this stitch for best results.
Here is ashort tutorial on the subject.
150 — Long Superjersey
151 — Darning
This one is a little tricky. It does a long back-and-forth stitch used fordarning. You drag the fabric slowly under the foot to get the effect youneed. See p.45 in the Supermatic manual.
152 — Superstretch
154 — Pattern of X's
Decorative.
155
156
162 — Box Stitch
Used along with a wing needle to make decorative hem stitches.Tutorial.
163 — Double Overlock
This video shows how this disc can be used to repair a cut in fabric.